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Position: Chinese Standard in English/FZ/T 81008-2011
FZ/T 81008-2011   Jackets (English Version)
Standard No.: FZ/T 81008-2011 Status:superseded remind me the status change

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Language:English File Format:PDF
Word Count: 7000 words Price(USD):170.0 remind me the price change

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Implemented on:2012-7-1 Delivery: via email in 1 business day
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Standard No.: FZ/T 81008-2011
English Name: Jackets
Chinese Name: 茄克衫
Chinese Classification: Y76    Clothing and clothing accessories
Professional Classification: FZ    Professional Standard - Textile
Issued by: Ministry of Industry and Information Technology
Issued on: 2011-12-20
Implemented on: 2012-7-1
Status: superseded
Superseded by:FZ/T 81008-2021 Jackets
Superseded on:2021-7-1
Superseding:FZ/T 81008-2004 Jackets
Language: English
File Format: PDF
Word Count: 7000 words
Price(USD): 170.0
Delivery: via email in 1 business day
Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard replaces FZ/T 81008-2004 "Jackets". Compared with FZ/T 81008-2004, this standard has the following main changes: ——Modify the application scope of the standard; ——Supplement the normative references; ——Supplement the requirements for the instructions for use of the finished product; ——Modify the requirements for shell fabric quality; ——Supplement the quality requirements for buttons and accessories; ——Modify the examination indexes of appearance defects; ——Add the stand collar pattern for appearance defects and permissible deviation of specification for main position of the finished product; ——Modify the permissible deviation of specification of collar length; ——Add the examination requirements for colour fastness to water and colour fastness to perspiration of lining; ——Add the examination indexes of colour fastness to soaping and staining of embroidery thread; ——Modify the examination indexes of colour fastness to wet friction of shell fabric; ——Modify the remarks in the table of allowable degree of colour fastness of shell fabric; ——Modify the slippage degree indexes of seams in the main positions of the finished product; ——Modify the requirements for formaldehyde content and pH value limit in the finished product; ——Add the requirements for the peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye of the finished product; ——Cancel the rating mode for pilling sample photo; ——Replenish and perfect the judgment criteria for finished product quality defects. ——Modify the content of Appendix A of this standard. Appendix A of this standard is normative. This standard is proposed by China National Textile And Apparel Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China. The National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China is responsible for the explanation of this standard. Drafting organizations of this standard: K-Boxing (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., Shanghai Garment Research Institute, State Supervision and Inspection Center for Garment Quality (Shanghai), Shenzhen Fibre Textile Inspection Institute, K-Boxing Co., Ltd., Fujian Swkids Industry Co., Ltd., Shanghai Li Garments Co., Ltd., Fujian Seven Brand Group Co., Ltd., Shanghai Li (Changshu) Garments Co., Ltd. Chief drafting staff of this standard: Xu Jingyun, Xu Jian, Yang Zhimin, Sun Min, Qin Wei, Jiang Hui, Guo Yali, Teng Wanhong, Zhang Guoqing, Shi Lizhen. The previous editions of the standards replaced by this standard are as: ——FZ/T 81008-1994 and FZ/T 81008-2004. PROFESSIONAL STANDARD OF THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA 中华人民共和国纺织行业标准 FZ/T 81008-2011 Jackets 茄克衫 1 Scope This standard specifies the requirements, testing methods, inspection rules as well as marking, packing, transport and storage and other technical characteristics of jackets. This standard is applicable to jackets produced with textile woven fabrics as main shell fabric. This standard is not applicable to children's wear and infant's wear. 2 Normative References The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated normative references, only the dated editions are applicable to this document. For undated references, the latest editions of the normative documents (including all the amendments) are applicable to this document. GB/T 250 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour" GB/T 251 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour" GB/T 1335.1 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Men" GB/T 1335.2 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Women" GB/T 2910 (All Parts) "Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis" GB/T 2912.1 "Textiles-Determination of Formaldehyde-Part 1: Free and Hydrolized Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)" GB/T 3920 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Rubbing" GB/T 3921-2008 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda" GB/T 3922 "Textiles-Testing Method for Colour Fastness to Perspiration" GB/T 4802.1-2008 "Textiles-Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling-Part 1: Circular Locus Method" GB/T 4841.3 "Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25" GB 5296.4 "Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest-Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel" GB/T 5711 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning" GB/T 5713 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Water" GB/T 7573 "Textiles-Determination of pH of Aqueous Extract" GB/T 8170 "Rules of Rounding off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgement of Limiting Values" GB/T 8427-2008 "Textiles-Tests for Color Fastness-Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test" GB/T 8630 "Textiles-Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying" GB/T 13769 "Textiles-Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Cleansing" GB/T 13771 "Textiles-Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Seams in Fabrics after Cleansing" GB/T 15557 "Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel" GB/T 16988 "Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fibre and Wool" GB/T 17592 "Textiles-Determination of the Banned Azo Colourants" GB/T 18132 "Silk Garments" GB 18401 "National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products" FZ/T 01026 "Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis-Quaternary Fibre Mixtures" FZ/T 01048 "Determination Method for Blending Ratio of Silk and Cashmere Blended Textiles" FZ/T 01053 "Textiles-Identification of Fiber Content" FZ/T 01057 (All Parts) "Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers" FZ/T 30003 "Method for Quantitative Analysis of Ramie (Flax Hemp) Cotton Blended Textile-Micro Projection" FZ/T 80002 "Marking Packaging Transportation and Storage for Garments" FZ/T 80004 "Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection" FZ/T 80007.1 "Test Method of Peeled off Strength Value for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining" FZ/T 80007.3 "Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining" 3 Requirements 3.1 Instructions for use The instructions for use of the finished product shall comply with the requirements of GB 5296.4 and GB 18401. 3.2 Size and specification 3.2.1 The size setting shall be selected according to GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.2. 3.2.2 The specifications of main positions of the finished product shall be designed by itself according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.2. 3.3 Raw materials 3.3.1 Shell fabric Shell fabric meeting the quality requirements of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant textile shell fabric standard. 3.3.2 Lining The lining with appropriate property and colour and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted (except special design). 3.3.3 Accessory fabric 3.3.3.1 Lining cloth and shoulder pad The lining cloth and shoulder pad with appropriate property and colour and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted, and their quality shall meet the requirements of this standard. 3.3.3.2 Suture Suture suitable for the property of shell fabric and accessory fabric used shall be adopted; the shrinkage of embroidery thread shall be appropriate to that of shell fabric; button thread shall be suitable for button in colour and lustre; brand thread shall be suitable for the brand ground colour (except ornamental thread). 3.3.3.3 Buttons and accessories Buttons (except ornamental button), zippers and metallic accessories suitable for the shell fabric used shall be adopted and free from defects. The buttons shall be smooth in surface without defect; the zippers shall be meshed well, smooth and fluent; and the metal accessories shall be free from rust, spike and staining. 3.4 Warp and weft direction 3.4.1 The allowable skewness degree of top collar, back and sleeve shall not be larger than 3%, and the front fly hem is not turned. 3.4.2 The skew of coloured woven plaid shall not be larger than 3%. 3.5 Strip and plaid matching 3.5.1 Obvious stripes and plaids of over 1.0cm on shell fabric shall comply with the requirements of Table 1. Table 1 cm Position name Requirements for stripe and plaid matching Remarks Right and left front fly Strips are smooth and straight; plaids are aligned horizontally; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. If the sizes of plaids are different, take the upper part of one half of coat length. Pocket and front fly Strips match and plaids match; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. The patch pocket of deflected material is in bilateral symmetry, and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.5 (except shadow stripe and plaid). If the sizes of plaids are different, take the front part of the pocket. Collar point and lapel Strips are symmetrical and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.2. If any shadow plaid, subject to obvious stripe and plaid. Sleeve Strips shall be smooth and straight and plaids shall be aligned horizontally; the sleeve top shall prevail; two sleeves shall be symmetrical; and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.8. — Back seam Strips match and plaids match; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. — Side seam Plaids are aligned horizontally and the mutual deviation below 10.0 from arm hole bottom is not larger than 0.4. — Note: It is exclusive of special design. 3.5.2 The fabric (velvet), raw shadow plaid and the whole body shall be in the same direction (the raw long wool and the whole body shall be in the same direction, excluding special design). 3.5.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main picture, and the whole body shall be in the same direction. 3.6 Splicing The front facing may be spliced once below the lapel and above the undermost button hole, but shall avoid button hole position. The collar band may be spliced symmetrically (not allowed for stand collar). Other positions may not be spliced, except ornamental splicing. 3.7 Colour difference 3.7.1 The colour difference of collar, lapel, front shawl and front fly shall be higher than Grade 4. The colour difference of the lining shall not be less than Grade 3-4. 3.7.2 The colour difference caused by adhesive interlining covered shall not be less than Grade 3-4. The colour difference of other surface positions shall not be less than Grade 4. 3.8 Appearance defects The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2. The classification of positions of the finished product is detailed in Figure 1. Only one defect is allowable on each independent position, and the defects not listed in this standard shall, by their form, refer to the similar defects in Table 2. Table 2 cm Defect name Allowable existence degree of each position No. 1 position No. 2 position No. 3 position Yarn one times thicker than basic yarn Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Within 3.5 length Yarn two times thicker than basic yarn Not allowed Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Thick warp yarn Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Within 3.5 length Warp shrinkage ripple Not allowed Not wider than 0.5 Not wider than 1.0 Light oily yarn Not allowed 1.6~2.5 2.6~3.5 Spot defect (oil, rust and colour spot) Not allowed Not larger than 0.2 cm2 Not obvious Not larger than 0.3 cm2 Not obvious Note: Light oily yarn is not allowed at No. 1 position of light-colour raw material (visual inspection from 60cm). Figure 1 3.9 Sewing 3.9.1 Stitch size spacing density shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3 (except special design). Table 3 Item Stitch size spacing density Remarks Open/blind stitch Not less than 12 stitches per 3cm Except special need Overseam stitch Not less than 9 stitches per 3cm — Handcrafted stitch Not less than 7 stitches per 3cm Shoulder seam, arm hole and collar shall not be less than 9 stitches Herringbone stitch Not less than 5 stitches per 3cm Calculate by a single side Button hole Thin thread Not less than 12 stitches per 1cm — Thick thread Not less than 9 stitches per 1cm — Sewing button Thin thread Not less than 8 threads per hole Height of leg wounding thread is appropriate to seam thickness Thick thread Not less than 6 threads per hole 3.9.2 The sewing of each position shall be flat; the line shall be smooth and straight, regular and firm; the stitch mark shall be even; the tightness of the upper and lower threads shall be appropriate; the start and stop stitch points and pocket opening shall be back stitched firmly. 3.9.3 Collar shall be flat, not upturned; open threads of the collar shall be free from stitch overlapping. 3.9.4 Set sleeve shall be round and smooth; front and back parts shall be basically consistent. Pocket and its cover shall be upright, round and smooth. 3.9.5 The seam allowance of each position shall not be less than 0.8cm (except special process requirements). 3.9.6 Button hole shall be located accurately and sized suitably; button and hole shall be in place, regular and firm. The hole position shall be free from deflection; button hole stitches shall be aesthetic, regular and flat. 3.9.7 Sewing button shall be firm; the button feet shall be suitable in height; the knots shall be free from exposure. Sewing buttons shall not be nailed on single cloth (except ornamental button); leg wounding height and button hole thickness shall be appropriate; winding shall be more than three times (except ornamental button); taking up and knotting shall be solid and intact. 3.9.8 The tightness of upper and lower snap buttons shall be suitable and firm, without shedding; button and button hole as well as upper and lower snap buttons shall be in place. 3.9.9 Attaching zipper stitches shall be smooth and straight; zipper tape shall be flat; right and left height shall be uniform. 3.9.10 Symmetrical positions shall be basically consistent. 3.9.11 The collar position shall be free from skipping stitch; the rest positions shall be free from two or above single or continuous skipping stitches within 30cm. Chain stitches shall be free from skipping stitch. 3.9.12 Brand, size mark, composition content mark and washing mark shall be accurate and clean, and upright in position. 3.10 Permissible deviation of specification The permissible deviation of specification on main positions of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4. Table 4 cm Position name Permissible deviation of specification Collar length ±1.0 Coat length ±1.0 Chest girth ±2.0 Total shoulder width ±0.8 Long sleeve length Set sleeve ±0.8 Long sleeve length Raglan sleeve ±1.2 Short sleeve length ±0.6 3.11 Ironing 3.11.1 The ironing at each position shall be flat and neat and free from overpress, water stain and pressing mark. 3.11.2 The position covered with adhesive interlining shall be free from degumming, strike-through and wrinkling. 3.12 Physical and chemical properties 3.12.1 Washing fastness Washing fastness covers dimensional change ratio of finished product after washing, dimensional change ratio after dry cleaning, appearance smoothness after washing and drying, seam appearance after cleansing and drying, strike-through and bubbling requirements after washing. 3.12.1.1 The dimensional change ratio of the finished product after washing shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 5. Table 5 % Position High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product Collar length ≥-1.0 ≥-1.0 ≥-1.5 Chest girth ≥-1.5 ≥-2.0 ≥-2.5 Coat length ≥-1.5 ≥-2.5 ≥-3.5 Note: For the dimensional change ratio of the finished product after washing, only the washable product indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.1.2 The dimensional change ratio of the finished product after dry cleaning shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 6. Table 6 % Position Dimensional change ratio after dry cleaning Collar length ≥-1.5 Chest girth ≥-2.0 Coat length ≥-2.0 Note: For the dimensional change ratio of the finished product after dry cleaning, only the dry cleanable product indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.1.3 The quality requirements for appearance smoothness after washing and drying, seam appearance after washing and drying and adhesive interlining after washing shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 7. Table 7 Grade Item Quality requirement High-grade product First-grade product and qualified product Appearance smoothness after washing and drying ((except special design) ≥3 Not examined Seam appearance quality after washing and drying (except special design) ≥4 ≥3 Adhesive interlining quality after washing Free from strike-through and bubbling Free from obvious strike-through and obvious bubbling Note: Only the washable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.2 Peeled off strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining The peeled off strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining shall not be less than 6N/2.5cm×10cm (except composite and spraying shell fabric); if nonwoven adhesive interlining is incapable of being peeled off in the test, this index is not examined. 3.12.3 Colour fastness 3.12.3.1 The allowable degree of colour fastness of shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 8. Table 8 Grade Item Allowable degree of colour fastness High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product Dry cleaning fastness Discoloration ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4 Staining ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4 Soaping fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Dry friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Wet friction fastness Staining ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥2-3 Light fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Perspiration fastness Discoloration ≥3 Staining ≥3 Water fastness Discoloration ≥3 Staining ≥3 Note 1: For colour fastness to dry cleaning, only the dry cleanable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined; for colour fastness to soaping, only the washable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. Note 2: The allowable degree of colour fastness of silk and silk-based blend fabric shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 18132. Note 3: The qualified product index for the colour fastness to wet friction of emerizing, roughing, flocking shell fabric and dark shell fabric is allowed to be half grade lower than that in this standard. Note 4: According to those specified in GB/T 4841.3, the colour larger than 1/2 colour card of standard depth for dyeing with dyestuffs is dark, while that less than or equal to 1/12 is light. 3.12.3.2 The colour fastness to dry friction of lining shall not be less than Grade 3-4; the staining of colour fastness to soaping shall not be less than Grade 3; the colour fastness to water shall not be less than Grade 3; the colour fastness to perspiration shall not be less than Grade 3; and the colour fastness to soaping of embroidery thread shall not be less than Grade 4. 3.12.4 Fuzzing and pilling The allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling of finished shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 9. Table 9 Grade Grade Allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling High-grade product ≥4 First-grade product ≥3-4 Qualified product ≥3 3.12.5 Slippage and sewing performance The slippage degree of seam of main positions of the finished product shall not be larger than 0.6cm. If any textile rupture or tearing phenomenon in the slippage test result, it is judged as qualified; if any slipping phenomenon, it is judged as unqualified; if any suture rupture phenomenon, the sewing performance is judged as unqualified. 3.12.6 Formaldehyde content, pH value, peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye Formaldehyde content, pH value, peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye of the finished product shall comply with GB 18401. 3.12.7 Component and content of raw material The component and content of the raw material of the finished product shall meet the requirements of FZ/T 01053. 4 Testing Methods 4.1 Testing instruments 4.1.1 Steel tape and graduated scale, with a division value of 1mm. 4.1.2 Sample photo of appearance smoothness after washing and drying and sample photo of seam appearance quality after washing and drying. 4.1.3 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB/T 250). 4.1.4 Gray scale for assessing staining (GB/T 251). 4.1.5 Sample photos of appearance defects of men's and women's underlined and cotton garments. 4.1.6 1/12 colour card of standard depth for dyeing with dyestuffs (GB/T 4841.3). 4.2 Determination of finished product specification 4.2.1 The measurement method for the specification of main positions of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 10, and the measurement position is detailed in Figure 2.
Foreword I 1 Scope 2 Normative References 3 Requirements 4 Testing Methods 5 Inspection Classification Rules 6 Marking, Packing, Transport and Storage Appendix A (Normative) Test Method for Slippage Degree of Seam
Referred in FZ/T 81008-2011:
*GB/T 250-2008 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Grey scale for assessing change in colour
*GB/T 251-2008 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing staining
*GB/T 1335.1-2008 Standard sizing systems for garments - Men
*GB/T 1335.2-2008 Standard sizing systems for garments - Women
*GB/T 2910-1997 Textile--Binary fibre mixtures--Quantitative chemical analysis
*GB/T 2912.1-2009 Textiles—Determination of formaldehyde—Part 1:Free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde(water extraction method)
*GB/T 3920-2008 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to rubbing
*GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
*GB/T 3922-2013 Textiles - Testing method for colour fastness to perspiration
*GB/T 4802.1-2008 Textiles—Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling—Part 1:Circular locus method
*GB/T 4841.3-2006 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
*GB 5296.4-2012 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
*GB/T 5711-2015 Textiles―Tests for colour fastness―Colour fastness to drycleaning using perchloroethylene solvent
*GB/T 5713-2013 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to water
*GB/T 7573-2009 Textiles—Determination of pH of aqueous extract
*GB/T 8170-2008 Rules of rounding off for numerical values & expression and judgement of limiting values
*GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
*GB/T 8630-2013 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
*GB/T 13769-2009 Textiles — Test method for assessing the smoothness appearance of fabrics after cleansing
*GB/T 13771-2009 Textiles — Test method for assessing the smoothness appearance of seams in fabrics after cleansing
*GB/T 15557-2008 Standard terminology relating to apparel
*GB/T 16988-2013 Quantitative Determination for Mixtures Of Special Animal Fibre and Wool
*GB/T 17592-2011 Textiles―Determination of the banned azo colourants
*GB/T 18132-2016 Silk Garments
*GB 18401-2010 National general safety technical code for textile products
*FZ/T 01026-2017 Textiles - Quantitative chemical analysis - Multi-component fibre mixtures
*FZ/T 01048-1997 Determination method for blending ratio of silk and cashmere blended textiles
*FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
*FZT01057-
*FZ/T 30003-2009 Method for quantitative analysis of ramie(flax hemp)cotton blended textile—Micro projection
*FZ/T 80002-2016 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
*FZ/T 80004-2014 Rule for garments delivery inspection
*FZ/T 80007.1-2006 Test method of peeled off strength value for garments used adhesive interlining
*FZ/T 80007.3-2006 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
FZ/T 81008-2011 is referred in:
*GJB 1198.1A-2004 Telemetry tracking command and data handling for spacecraft Part 1:PCM telecommand
*GB/T 23833-2022 Bar code for commodity―Numbering and symbol marking of assets
*GB/T 26699-2022 Ball pens for exam
*GB/T 22766.1-2022 After-sales service of household and similar electrical appliances―Part 1:General requirement
*GB/T 26704-2022 Pencils
*GB/T 28905-2022 Low yield strength steel plate for construction
*GB/T 41988-2022 Public security―Iris recognition applications―Technical requirements for iris images
*GB/T 21352-2022 Flame retardant steel cord conveyor belts used in underground mines
*GB/T 35598-2022 Heat resistant appliance pressed from borosilicate glass
*GJB 150.9A-2009 Laboratory environmental test methods for military materiel - Part 9: Fungus test
*GBJ 2427-1995 Methods for laser gyroscope test
*GB/T 244-2020 Metallic material—Tube—Bend test method
*GB/T 244-2008 Metallic materials - Tube - Bend test
*GB/T 51410-2020 Technical standard for application of firestop in buildings
*GB/T 24347-2021 DC/DC converter for electric vehicles
*GB/T 2423.18-2021 Environmental testing—Part 2: Test methods—Test Kb:Salt mist, cyclic(sodium chloride solution)
*YY/T 0595-2020 Medical devices—Quality management systems—Guidance on the application of YY/T 0287-2017
*GB/T 22705-2019 Safety specifications for cords and drawstrings on children's clothing
*GB/T 22705-2008 Safety specifications for cords and drawstrings on childrens clothing
*QB/T 2714-2018 Leather -- Physical and mechanical tests -- Determination of flex resistance
*QB/T 2710-2018 Leather -- Physical and mechanical tests -- Determination of tensile strength and percentage extension
*QB/T 2707-2018 Leather -- Physical and mechanical tests -- Sample preparation and conditioning
*FZ/T 01166-2022 Textiles - Determination and evaluation for fabric-skin touch comfort - Multi-index integration method
*GB/T 38385-2019 Determination of disperse yellow 23 and disperse orange 149 dyes in dye products
*GB/T 22807-2019 Leather and fur—Chemical tests—Determination of chromium Ⅵ content
*GB/T 22798-2019 Test method for fiber fall off of towel product
*GB/T 19942-2019 Leather and fur-Chemical tests-Determination of banned azo colourants
*GB/T 19941.3-2019 Leather and fur—Determination of formaldehyde content—Part 3: Formaldehyde emissions
*GB/T 19941.2-2019 Leather and fur—Determination of formaldehyde content—Part 2: Colorimetric method
*GB/T 19941.1-2019 Leather and fur—Determination of formaldehyde content—Part 1: High performance liquid chromatography method
*GB/T 14214-2019 Spectacle frames—General requirements and test methods
*GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles-Tests for color fastness-Color fastness to artificial light:Xenon arc
*GB/T 22702-2019 Measurement method for cords and drawstrings on children's clothing
*GB/T 38012-2019 Footwear—Test methods for whole shoe—Impact shock attenuating property
Code of China
Standard
FZ/T 81008-2011  Jackets (English Version)
Standard No.FZ/T 81008-2011
Statussuperseded
LanguageEnglish
File FormatPDF
Word Count7000 words
Price(USD)170.0
Implemented on2012-7-1
Deliveryvia email in 1 business day
Detail of FZ/T 81008-2011
Standard No.
FZ/T 81008-2011
English Name
Jackets
Chinese Name
茄克衫
Chinese Classification
Y76
Professional Classification
FZ
ICS Classification
Issued by
Ministry of Industry and Information Technology
Issued on
2011-12-20
Implemented on
2012-7-1
Status
superseded
Superseded by
FZ/T 81008-2021 Jackets
Superseded on
2021-7-1
Abolished on
Superseding
FZ/T 81008-2004 Jackets
Language
English
File Format
PDF
Word Count
7000 words
Price(USD)
170.0
Keywords
FZ/T 81008-2011, FZ 81008-2011, FZT 81008-2011, FZ/T81008-2011, FZ/T 81008, FZ/T81008, FZ81008-2011, FZ 81008, FZ81008, FZT81008-2011, FZT 81008, FZT81008
Introduction of FZ/T 81008-2011
Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard replaces FZ/T 81008-2004 "Jackets". Compared with FZ/T 81008-2004, this standard has the following main changes: ——Modify the application scope of the standard; ——Supplement the normative references; ——Supplement the requirements for the instructions for use of the finished product; ——Modify the requirements for shell fabric quality; ——Supplement the quality requirements for buttons and accessories; ——Modify the examination indexes of appearance defects; ——Add the stand collar pattern for appearance defects and permissible deviation of specification for main position of the finished product; ——Modify the permissible deviation of specification of collar length; ——Add the examination requirements for colour fastness to water and colour fastness to perspiration of lining; ——Add the examination indexes of colour fastness to soaping and staining of embroidery thread; ——Modify the examination indexes of colour fastness to wet friction of shell fabric; ——Modify the remarks in the table of allowable degree of colour fastness of shell fabric; ——Modify the slippage degree indexes of seams in the main positions of the finished product; ——Modify the requirements for formaldehyde content and pH value limit in the finished product; ——Add the requirements for the peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye of the finished product; ——Cancel the rating mode for pilling sample photo; ——Replenish and perfect the judgment criteria for finished product quality defects. ——Modify the content of Appendix A of this standard. Appendix A of this standard is normative. This standard is proposed by China National Textile And Apparel Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China. The National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China is responsible for the explanation of this standard. Drafting organizations of this standard: K-Boxing (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., Shanghai Garment Research Institute, State Supervision and Inspection Center for Garment Quality (Shanghai), Shenzhen Fibre Textile Inspection Institute, K-Boxing Co., Ltd., Fujian Swkids Industry Co., Ltd., Shanghai Li Garments Co., Ltd., Fujian Seven Brand Group Co., Ltd., Shanghai Li (Changshu) Garments Co., Ltd. Chief drafting staff of this standard: Xu Jingyun, Xu Jian, Yang Zhimin, Sun Min, Qin Wei, Jiang Hui, Guo Yali, Teng Wanhong, Zhang Guoqing, Shi Lizhen. The previous editions of the standards replaced by this standard are as: ——FZ/T 81008-1994 and FZ/T 81008-2004. PROFESSIONAL STANDARD OF THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA 中华人民共和国纺织行业标准 FZ/T 81008-2011 Jackets 茄克衫 1 Scope This standard specifies the requirements, testing methods, inspection rules as well as marking, packing, transport and storage and other technical characteristics of jackets. This standard is applicable to jackets produced with textile woven fabrics as main shell fabric. This standard is not applicable to children's wear and infant's wear. 2 Normative References The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated normative references, only the dated editions are applicable to this document. For undated references, the latest editions of the normative documents (including all the amendments) are applicable to this document. GB/T 250 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour" GB/T 251 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour" GB/T 1335.1 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Men" GB/T 1335.2 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Women" GB/T 2910 (All Parts) "Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis" GB/T 2912.1 "Textiles-Determination of Formaldehyde-Part 1: Free and Hydrolized Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)" GB/T 3920 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Rubbing" GB/T 3921-2008 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda" GB/T 3922 "Textiles-Testing Method for Colour Fastness to Perspiration" GB/T 4802.1-2008 "Textiles-Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling-Part 1: Circular Locus Method" GB/T 4841.3 "Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25" GB 5296.4 "Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest-Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel" GB/T 5711 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning" GB/T 5713 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Water" GB/T 7573 "Textiles-Determination of pH of Aqueous Extract" GB/T 8170 "Rules of Rounding off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgement of Limiting Values" GB/T 8427-2008 "Textiles-Tests for Color Fastness-Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test" GB/T 8630 "Textiles-Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying" GB/T 13769 "Textiles-Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Cleansing" GB/T 13771 "Textiles-Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Seams in Fabrics after Cleansing" GB/T 15557 "Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel" GB/T 16988 "Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fibre and Wool" GB/T 17592 "Textiles-Determination of the Banned Azo Colourants" GB/T 18132 "Silk Garments" GB 18401 "National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products" FZ/T 01026 "Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis-Quaternary Fibre Mixtures" FZ/T 01048 "Determination Method for Blending Ratio of Silk and Cashmere Blended Textiles" FZ/T 01053 "Textiles-Identification of Fiber Content" FZ/T 01057 (All Parts) "Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers" FZ/T 30003 "Method for Quantitative Analysis of Ramie (Flax Hemp) Cotton Blended Textile-Micro Projection" FZ/T 80002 "Marking Packaging Transportation and Storage for Garments" FZ/T 80004 "Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection" FZ/T 80007.1 "Test Method of Peeled off Strength Value for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining" FZ/T 80007.3 "Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining" 3 Requirements 3.1 Instructions for use The instructions for use of the finished product shall comply with the requirements of GB 5296.4 and GB 18401. 3.2 Size and specification 3.2.1 The size setting shall be selected according to GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.2. 3.2.2 The specifications of main positions of the finished product shall be designed by itself according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.2. 3.3 Raw materials 3.3.1 Shell fabric Shell fabric meeting the quality requirements of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant textile shell fabric standard. 3.3.2 Lining The lining with appropriate property and colour and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted (except special design). 3.3.3 Accessory fabric 3.3.3.1 Lining cloth and shoulder pad The lining cloth and shoulder pad with appropriate property and colour and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted, and their quality shall meet the requirements of this standard. 3.3.3.2 Suture Suture suitable for the property of shell fabric and accessory fabric used shall be adopted; the shrinkage of embroidery thread shall be appropriate to that of shell fabric; button thread shall be suitable for button in colour and lustre; brand thread shall be suitable for the brand ground colour (except ornamental thread). 3.3.3.3 Buttons and accessories Buttons (except ornamental button), zippers and metallic accessories suitable for the shell fabric used shall be adopted and free from defects. The buttons shall be smooth in surface without defect; the zippers shall be meshed well, smooth and fluent; and the metal accessories shall be free from rust, spike and staining. 3.4 Warp and weft direction 3.4.1 The allowable skewness degree of top collar, back and sleeve shall not be larger than 3%, and the front fly hem is not turned. 3.4.2 The skew of coloured woven plaid shall not be larger than 3%. 3.5 Strip and plaid matching 3.5.1 Obvious stripes and plaids of over 1.0cm on shell fabric shall comply with the requirements of Table 1. Table 1 cm Position name Requirements for stripe and plaid matching Remarks Right and left front fly Strips are smooth and straight; plaids are aligned horizontally; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. If the sizes of plaids are different, take the upper part of one half of coat length. Pocket and front fly Strips match and plaids match; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. The patch pocket of deflected material is in bilateral symmetry, and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.5 (except shadow stripe and plaid). If the sizes of plaids are different, take the front part of the pocket. Collar point and lapel Strips are symmetrical and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.2. If any shadow plaid, subject to obvious stripe and plaid. Sleeve Strips shall be smooth and straight and plaids shall be aligned horizontally; the sleeve top shall prevail; two sleeves shall be symmetrical; and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.8. — Back seam Strips match and plaids match; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. — Side seam Plaids are aligned horizontally and the mutual deviation below 10.0 from arm hole bottom is not larger than 0.4. — Note: It is exclusive of special design. 3.5.2 The fabric (velvet), raw shadow plaid and the whole body shall be in the same direction (the raw long wool and the whole body shall be in the same direction, excluding special design). 3.5.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main picture, and the whole body shall be in the same direction. 3.6 Splicing The front facing may be spliced once below the lapel and above the undermost button hole, but shall avoid button hole position. The collar band may be spliced symmetrically (not allowed for stand collar). Other positions may not be spliced, except ornamental splicing. 3.7 Colour difference 3.7.1 The colour difference of collar, lapel, front shawl and front fly shall be higher than Grade 4. The colour difference of the lining shall not be less than Grade 3-4. 3.7.2 The colour difference caused by adhesive interlining covered shall not be less than Grade 3-4. The colour difference of other surface positions shall not be less than Grade 4. 3.8 Appearance defects The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2. The classification of positions of the finished product is detailed in Figure 1. Only one defect is allowable on each independent position, and the defects not listed in this standard shall, by their form, refer to the similar defects in Table 2. Table 2 cm Defect name Allowable existence degree of each position No. 1 position No. 2 position No. 3 position Yarn one times thicker than basic yarn Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Within 3.5 length Yarn two times thicker than basic yarn Not allowed Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Thick warp yarn Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Within 3.5 length Warp shrinkage ripple Not allowed Not wider than 0.5 Not wider than 1.0 Light oily yarn Not allowed 1.6~2.5 2.6~3.5 Spot defect (oil, rust and colour spot) Not allowed Not larger than 0.2 cm2 Not obvious Not larger than 0.3 cm2 Not obvious Note: Light oily yarn is not allowed at No. 1 position of light-colour raw material (visual inspection from 60cm). Figure 1 3.9 Sewing 3.9.1 Stitch size spacing density shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3 (except special design). Table 3 Item Stitch size spacing density Remarks Open/blind stitch Not less than 12 stitches per 3cm Except special need Overseam stitch Not less than 9 stitches per 3cm — Handcrafted stitch Not less than 7 stitches per 3cm Shoulder seam, arm hole and collar shall not be less than 9 stitches Herringbone stitch Not less than 5 stitches per 3cm Calculate by a single side Button hole Thin thread Not less than 12 stitches per 1cm — Thick thread Not less than 9 stitches per 1cm — Sewing button Thin thread Not less than 8 threads per hole Height of leg wounding thread is appropriate to seam thickness Thick thread Not less than 6 threads per hole 3.9.2 The sewing of each position shall be flat; the line shall be smooth and straight, regular and firm; the stitch mark shall be even; the tightness of the upper and lower threads shall be appropriate; the start and stop stitch points and pocket opening shall be back stitched firmly. 3.9.3 Collar shall be flat, not upturned; open threads of the collar shall be free from stitch overlapping. 3.9.4 Set sleeve shall be round and smooth; front and back parts shall be basically consistent. Pocket and its cover shall be upright, round and smooth. 3.9.5 The seam allowance of each position shall not be less than 0.8cm (except special process requirements). 3.9.6 Button hole shall be located accurately and sized suitably; button and hole shall be in place, regular and firm. The hole position shall be free from deflection; button hole stitches shall be aesthetic, regular and flat. 3.9.7 Sewing button shall be firm; the button feet shall be suitable in height; the knots shall be free from exposure. Sewing buttons shall not be nailed on single cloth (except ornamental button); leg wounding height and button hole thickness shall be appropriate; winding shall be more than three times (except ornamental button); taking up and knotting shall be solid and intact. 3.9.8 The tightness of upper and lower snap buttons shall be suitable and firm, without shedding; button and button hole as well as upper and lower snap buttons shall be in place. 3.9.9 Attaching zipper stitches shall be smooth and straight; zipper tape shall be flat; right and left height shall be uniform. 3.9.10 Symmetrical positions shall be basically consistent. 3.9.11 The collar position shall be free from skipping stitch; the rest positions shall be free from two or above single or continuous skipping stitches within 30cm. Chain stitches shall be free from skipping stitch. 3.9.12 Brand, size mark, composition content mark and washing mark shall be accurate and clean, and upright in position. 3.10 Permissible deviation of specification The permissible deviation of specification on main positions of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4. Table 4 cm Position name Permissible deviation of specification Collar length ±1.0 Coat length ±1.0 Chest girth ±2.0 Total shoulder width ±0.8 Long sleeve length Set sleeve ±0.8 Long sleeve length Raglan sleeve ±1.2 Short sleeve length ±0.6 3.11 Ironing 3.11.1 The ironing at each position shall be flat and neat and free from overpress, water stain and pressing mark. 3.11.2 The position covered with adhesive interlining shall be free from degumming, strike-through and wrinkling. 3.12 Physical and chemical properties 3.12.1 Washing fastness Washing fastness covers dimensional change ratio of finished product after washing, dimensional change ratio after dry cleaning, appearance smoothness after washing and drying, seam appearance after cleansing and drying, strike-through and bubbling requirements after washing. 3.12.1.1 The dimensional change ratio of the finished product after washing shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 5. Table 5 % Position High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product Collar length ≥-1.0 ≥-1.0 ≥-1.5 Chest girth ≥-1.5 ≥-2.0 ≥-2.5 Coat length ≥-1.5 ≥-2.5 ≥-3.5 Note: For the dimensional change ratio of the finished product after washing, only the washable product indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.1.2 The dimensional change ratio of the finished product after dry cleaning shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 6. Table 6 % Position Dimensional change ratio after dry cleaning Collar length ≥-1.5 Chest girth ≥-2.0 Coat length ≥-2.0 Note: For the dimensional change ratio of the finished product after dry cleaning, only the dry cleanable product indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.1.3 The quality requirements for appearance smoothness after washing and drying, seam appearance after washing and drying and adhesive interlining after washing shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 7. Table 7 Grade Item Quality requirement High-grade product First-grade product and qualified product Appearance smoothness after washing and drying ((except special design) ≥3 Not examined Seam appearance quality after washing and drying (except special design) ≥4 ≥3 Adhesive interlining quality after washing Free from strike-through and bubbling Free from obvious strike-through and obvious bubbling Note: Only the washable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.2 Peeled off strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining The peeled off strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining shall not be less than 6N/2.5cm×10cm (except composite and spraying shell fabric); if nonwoven adhesive interlining is incapable of being peeled off in the test, this index is not examined. 3.12.3 Colour fastness 3.12.3.1 The allowable degree of colour fastness of shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 8. Table 8 Grade Item Allowable degree of colour fastness High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product Dry cleaning fastness Discoloration ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4 Staining ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4 Soaping fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Dry friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Wet friction fastness Staining ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥2-3 Light fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Perspiration fastness Discoloration ≥3 Staining ≥3 Water fastness Discoloration ≥3 Staining ≥3 Note 1: For colour fastness to dry cleaning, only the dry cleanable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined; for colour fastness to soaping, only the washable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. Note 2: The allowable degree of colour fastness of silk and silk-based blend fabric shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 18132. Note 3: The qualified product index for the colour fastness to wet friction of emerizing, roughing, flocking shell fabric and dark shell fabric is allowed to be half grade lower than that in this standard. Note 4: According to those specified in GB/T 4841.3, the colour larger than 1/2 colour card of standard depth for dyeing with dyestuffs is dark, while that less than or equal to 1/12 is light. 3.12.3.2 The colour fastness to dry friction of lining shall not be less than Grade 3-4; the staining of colour fastness to soaping shall not be less than Grade 3; the colour fastness to water shall not be less than Grade 3; the colour fastness to perspiration shall not be less than Grade 3; and the colour fastness to soaping of embroidery thread shall not be less than Grade 4. 3.12.4 Fuzzing and pilling The allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling of finished shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 9. Table 9 Grade Grade Allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling High-grade product ≥4 First-grade product ≥3-4 Qualified product ≥3 3.12.5 Slippage and sewing performance The slippage degree of seam of main positions of the finished product shall not be larger than 0.6cm. If any textile rupture or tearing phenomenon in the slippage test result, it is judged as qualified; if any slipping phenomenon, it is judged as unqualified; if any suture rupture phenomenon, the sewing performance is judged as unqualified. 3.12.6 Formaldehyde content, pH value, peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye Formaldehyde content, pH value, peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye of the finished product shall comply with GB 18401. 3.12.7 Component and content of raw material The component and content of the raw material of the finished product shall meet the requirements of FZ/T 01053. 4 Testing Methods 4.1 Testing instruments 4.1.1 Steel tape and graduated scale, with a division value of 1mm. 4.1.2 Sample photo of appearance smoothness after washing and drying and sample photo of seam appearance quality after washing and drying. 4.1.3 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB/T 250). 4.1.4 Gray scale for assessing staining (GB/T 251). 4.1.5 Sample photos of appearance defects of men's and women's underlined and cotton garments. 4.1.6 1/12 colour card of standard depth for dyeing with dyestuffs (GB/T 4841.3). 4.2 Determination of finished product specification 4.2.1 The measurement method for the specification of main positions of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 10, and the measurement position is detailed in Figure 2.
Contents of FZ/T 81008-2011
Foreword I 1 Scope 2 Normative References 3 Requirements 4 Testing Methods 5 Inspection Classification Rules 6 Marking, Packing, Transport and Storage Appendix A (Normative) Test Method for Slippage Degree of Seam
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