Silk garments
1 Scope
This document specifies the requirements, inspection rules, marking, packaging, transport and storage of silk garments, and describes the corresponding inspection methods.
This document applies to silk garments made primarily from fabrics woven with pure or blended silk (filament) yarns, and spun silk fabrics with a silk content of not less than 30 %.
2 Normative references
The following normative documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in colour
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 3917.1 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf)
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 2: Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)
GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB/T 15557 Standard terminology relating to apparel
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 26380 Textiles - Terminology for silk
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907 Method of garment measurement
FZ/ T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
GSB 16-2178-2008 Sample photo of Grade 5 appearance defects and sewing wrinkle of silk garments
GSB 16-2179-2008 Sample photo of appearance defects of silk garments
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 15557 and GB/T 26380 apply.
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
The instructions for use shall comply with GB/T 5296.4. Products for infants and young children and children shall also comply with GB 31701. Care instructions for infant products shall indicate “do not dry clean”.
4.2 Size specifications
4.2.1 Size specifications shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.2.2 The specification of the main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.3 Raw materials
The shell and lining shall meet the relevant requirements of this standard. Fibres or fibre products that meet the requirements shall be selected in accordance with relevant standards. The accessories such as linings and sewing threads used shall be compatible with the shell. Buttons, decorative buttons, zippers and other accessories shall have smooth and clean surfaces, free from burrs, defects, damage, and shall have no accessible sharp points or sharp edges. Accessories on silk garments for infants shall not resemble food in appearance. Multi‑component buttons that can be separated into individual parts should not be used, except for jeans buttons. Zippers shall engage and operate smoothly.
4.4 Warp and weft yarn directions
4.4.1 The skewness of the yarn direction of the collar, back and sleeves shall not exceed 3 %, and the front hem shall not curl upward.
4.4.2 The skewness of the weft yarn direction of trousers and skirts shall not exceed 3 %, and that of the warp yarn direction shall not exceed 1.5 %.
4.5 Matching of stripes and plaids
4.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0cm or above on fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 1. Except for special design.
Table 1 Requirements of strip and plaid matching
Dimensions in centimetre
Part Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right fronts Stripes shall be straight, and plaids shall be horizontally aligned, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4. If the sizes of strip and plaid are different, the upper half part of the clothes length shall be taken as the primary reference.
Pocket and front Stripes shall be aligned with stripes, and plaids with plaids, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4. For bias‑cut patch pockets, the left and right shall be symmetrical, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.5. (Except for directional stripe and plaid patterns) When stripes or plaids are of different sizes, the front part of the pocket shall be taken as the primary reference.
Collar point and lapel Stripes and plaids shall be symmetrical, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.2. For fabrics with directional stripes or plaids, the more prominent stripe or plaid shall be taken as the primary reference.
Sleeves Stripes shall be straight, and plaids shall be horizontally aligned, with the sleeve cap as the reference point. The two sleeves shall be symmetrical with a tolerance not exceeding 1.0
–
Back centre seam and centre back seam of skirt Stripes shall be aligned with stripes, and plaids shall be horizontally aligned, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.3 –
Side seam Plaids shall be aligned with each other horizontally at 10 below the armhole, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4 –
Side seam of trousers and skirt Plaids below the knee line shall be aligned with each other horizontally, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4 Apparent strips and plaids shall be taken as the primary reference.
Front center seam of trousers and skirt Stripes shall be straight, with a skewness not exceeding 1.0 –
4.5.2 The skewness of striped or plaid patterns shall not exceed 3 %.
4.5.3 For fabric with directional nap or pile, and for fabrics with contrasting/check patterns, the direction shall be consistent throughout the whole garment, except for special design.
4.5.4 For fabric with special patterns, the main pattern shall be taken as the reference, and the direction shall be consistent throughout the garment.
4.6 Colour difference
4.6.1 The colour difference of fabrics on various parts shall be not lower than Grade 4. The colour difference of fabric and that caused by fusible interlining shall not be lower than Grade 3‑4, except for special design.
4.6.2 The colour difference between tops and bottoms of suits shall not be lower than Grade 4.
4.7 Appearance defects
The permissible limits of defects on each part of the finished product shall be as specified in Table 2. See Figure 1 for division of parts of finished product. The degree of surface defects shall comply with GSB 16-2179-2008. Only one defect within the permissible extent is allowed on each part. For defects not listed in this document, the provisions for similar defects in Table 2 shall be applied by reference according to their morphology.
Table 2 Requirements for appearance defects
Dimensions in centimetre
Defect Degree Permissible limit
Part No. 1 Part No. 2 Part No. 3
Linear defect Ordinary Not allowed ≤2.0 ≤3.0
Visible Not allowed Not allowed ≤2.0
Slub streaks Ordinary Not allowed One is allowed Two are allowed
Visible Not allowed Not allowed One is allowed
Patchy weaving defect Ordinary Not allowed ≤0.5 ≤1.0
Visible Not allowed Not allowed ≤0.5
Weft bar Ordinary Not allowed One is allowed Two are allowed
Visible Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Crease mark a Ordinary Not allowed ≤5.0 ≤10.0
Visible Not allowed Not allowed ≤5.0
Oil, rust or color spot Ordinary Not allowed ≤0.2 ≤0.3
Visible Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Note: The permissible value for defects in this table refers to total size of similar defects on the same product.
a Dead crease marks that cannot be ironed out shall be assessed as conspicuous crease marks.
Figure 1 Schematic diagram of the division of parts of the finished product
Contents
Foreword
1 Scope
2 Normative references
3 Terms and definitions
4 Requirements
5 Testing method
6 Inspection rules
7 Marking, packaging, transport and storage
Silk garments
1 Scope
This document specifies the requirements, inspection rules, marking, packaging, transport and storage of silk garments, and describes the corresponding inspection methods.
This document applies to silk garments made primarily from fabrics woven with pure or blended silk (filament) yarns, and spun silk fabrics with a silk content of not less than 30 %.
2 Normative references
The following normative documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in colour
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 3917.1 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf)
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 2: Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)
GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB/T 15557 Standard terminology relating to apparel
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 26380 Textiles - Terminology for silk
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907 Method of garment measurement
FZ/ T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
GSB 16-2178-2008 Sample photo of Grade 5 appearance defects and sewing wrinkle of silk garments
GSB 16-2179-2008 Sample photo of appearance defects of silk garments
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 15557 and GB/T 26380 apply.
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
The instructions for use shall comply with GB/T 5296.4. Products for infants and young children and children shall also comply with GB 31701. Care instructions for infant products shall indicate “do not dry clean”.
4.2 Size specifications
4.2.1 Size specifications shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.2.2 The specification of the main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.3 Raw materials
The shell and lining shall meet the relevant requirements of this standard. Fibres or fibre products that meet the requirements shall be selected in accordance with relevant standards. The accessories such as linings and sewing threads used shall be compatible with the shell. Buttons, decorative buttons, zippers and other accessories shall have smooth and clean surfaces, free from burrs, defects, damage, and shall have no accessible sharp points or sharp edges. Accessories on silk garments for infants shall not resemble food in appearance. Multi‑component buttons that can be separated into individual parts should not be used, except for jeans buttons. Zippers shall engage and operate smoothly.
4.4 Warp and weft yarn directions
4.4.1 The skewness of the yarn direction of the collar, back and sleeves shall not exceed 3 %, and the front hem shall not curl upward.
4.4.2 The skewness of the weft yarn direction of trousers and skirts shall not exceed 3 %, and that of the warp yarn direction shall not exceed 1.5 %.
4.5 Matching of stripes and plaids
4.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0cm or above on fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 1. Except for special design.
Table 1 Requirements of strip and plaid matching
Dimensions in centimetre
Part Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right fronts Stripes shall be straight, and plaids shall be horizontally aligned, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4. If the sizes of strip and plaid are different, the upper half part of the clothes length shall be taken as the primary reference.
Pocket and front Stripes shall be aligned with stripes, and plaids with plaids, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4. For bias‑cut patch pockets, the left and right shall be symmetrical, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.5. (Except for directional stripe and plaid patterns) When stripes or plaids are of different sizes, the front part of the pocket shall be taken as the primary reference.
Collar point and lapel Stripes and plaids shall be symmetrical, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.2. For fabrics with directional stripes or plaids, the more prominent stripe or plaid shall be taken as the primary reference.
Sleeves Stripes shall be straight, and plaids shall be horizontally aligned, with the sleeve cap as the reference point. The two sleeves shall be symmetrical with a tolerance not exceeding 1.0
–
Back centre seam and centre back seam of skirt Stripes shall be aligned with stripes, and plaids shall be horizontally aligned, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.3 –
Side seam Plaids shall be aligned with each other horizontally at 10 below the armhole, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4 –
Side seam of trousers and skirt Plaids below the knee line shall be aligned with each other horizontally, with a tolerance not exceeding 0.4 Apparent strips and plaids shall be taken as the primary reference.
Front center seam of trousers and skirt Stripes shall be straight, with a skewness not exceeding 1.0 –
4.5.2 The skewness of striped or plaid patterns shall not exceed 3 %.
4.5.3 For fabric with directional nap or pile, and for fabrics with contrasting/check patterns, the direction shall be consistent throughout the whole garment, except for special design.
4.5.4 For fabric with special patterns, the main pattern shall be taken as the reference, and the direction shall be consistent throughout the garment.
4.6 Colour difference
4.6.1 The colour difference of fabrics on various parts shall be not lower than Grade 4. The colour difference of fabric and that caused by fusible interlining shall not be lower than Grade 3‑4, except for special design.
4.6.2 The colour difference between tops and bottoms of suits shall not be lower than Grade 4.
4.7 Appearance defects
The permissible limits of defects on each part of the finished product shall be as specified in Table 2. See Figure 1 for division of parts of finished product. The degree of surface defects shall comply with GSB 16-2179-2008. Only one defect within the permissible extent is allowed on each part. For defects not listed in this document, the provisions for similar defects in Table 2 shall be applied by reference according to their morphology.
Table 2 Requirements for appearance defects
Dimensions in centimetre
Defect Degree Permissible limit
Part No. 1 Part No. 2 Part No. 3
Linear defect Ordinary Not allowed ≤2.0 ≤3.0
Visible Not allowed Not allowed ≤2.0
Slub streaks Ordinary Not allowed One is allowed Two are allowed
Visible Not allowed Not allowed One is allowed
Patchy weaving defect Ordinary Not allowed ≤0.5 ≤1.0
Visible Not allowed Not allowed ≤0.5
Weft bar Ordinary Not allowed One is allowed Two are allowed
Visible Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Crease mark a Ordinary Not allowed ≤5.0 ≤10.0
Visible Not allowed Not allowed ≤5.0
Oil, rust or color spot Ordinary Not allowed ≤0.2 ≤0.3
Visible Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Note: The permissible value for defects in this table refers to total size of similar defects on the same product.
a Dead crease marks that cannot be ironed out shall be assessed as conspicuous crease marks.
Figure 1 Schematic diagram of the division of parts of the finished product
Contents of GB/T 18132-2026
Contents
Foreword
1 Scope
2 Normative references
3 Terms and definitions
4 Requirements
5 Testing method
6 Inspection rules
7 Marking, packaging, transport and storage
