Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.
This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces FZ/T 81010-2009 Trench coats. In addition to a number of editorial changes, the following technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 81010-2009:
——Scope of the standard is modified (see Clause 1; Clause 1 of 2009 edition);
——Normative references are modified and supplemented (see Clause 2; Clause 2 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements of instructions are modified (see 3.1; 3.1 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for accessories are modified (see 3.3.3; 3.3.3 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for wrap and weft yarns are modified (see 3.4; 3.4 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for strip and plaid matching are modified (see 3.5; 3.5 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for splicing are deleted (see 3.6 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for appearance defects are modified (see 3.7; 3.8 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for sewing are modified (see 3.8; 3.9 of 2009 edition);
——The permissible deviation of specification and dimension is modified (see 3.9; 3.10 of 2009 edition);
——The requirement that garments for children aged from more than 3 years old to 14 years old shall also comply with those specified in GB 31701 is added (see 3.11);
——The index values of dimensional change rate by water washing, dimensional change rate by dry cleaning, color fastness to light, seam slippage, peeling strength of the part covered with adhesive interlining and tear force are modified (see 3.11, 3.12 of 2009 edition);
——The assessment indexes for wrinkling by dry cleaning is deleted (see 3.12 of 2009 edition);
——The assessment indexes for color fastness to transfer in joints, phenolic yellowing, dye mobility and appearance of finished coat after washing are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment indexes for color fastness of lining are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment indexes for functionality such as air permeability, hydrostatic pressure resistance and water and vapor transfer ratio are added (see 3.12);
——The inspection methods are modified and supplemented (see Clause 4; Clause 4 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for inspection classification are modified (see 5.1; 5.1 of 2009 edition);
——The judgment criteria for appearance quality defects are modified and supplemented (see 5.2.3; 5.2.3 of 2009 edition);
——The judgment rules are modified (see 5.4; 5.4 of 2009 edition);
——Annex A "Test method for seam slippage" is deleted (see Annex A of 2009 edition).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous editions of this standard are as follows:
——FZ/T 81010-1999, FZ/T 81010-2001 and FZ/T 81010-2009.
Trench coats
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection method, inspection rules, marking, packaging, transportation and storage of trench coats.
This standard is applicable to the trench coats mainly made of woven fabrics.
This standard is not applicable to the garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in color
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 2: Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 4744 Textiles - Testing and evaluation for water resistance - Hydrostatic pressure method
GB/T 4745 Textiles - Testing and evaluation for water resistance - Spray test method
GB/T 4841.3 Color cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 5453 Textiles - Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent
GB/T 6152-1997 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to hot pressing
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
GB/T 8629-2001 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
GB/T 12704.1-2009 Textiles - Test method for water-vapour transmission of fabrics - Part 1: Desiccant method
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to transfer in joints
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907-2015 Method of garment measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.1 Test method of peeled off strength value for garments used adhesive interlining
FZ/T 80007.3-2006 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
Sample photo of appearance sewing wrinkle of men's coats
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions
Instructions shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.
3.2 Size specification
3.2.1 Size specification shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.2.2 The specification of main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric in conformity to the quality requirement of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant standards for textile fabrics.
3.3.2 Lining
Lining suitable for the applied shell fabric and complying with the quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted.
3.3.3 Accessories
3.3.3.1 Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag
Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag suitable for the performance of the adopted shell fabric and lining shall be used and their quality shall meet the requirements of relevant standard.
3.3.3.2 Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon
Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and belt) suitable to the performance of the used shell fabric, lining and accessories shall be adopted.
3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other accessories
Buttons (except decorative buttons), zippers and other accessories suitable for the adopted shell fabric shall be used. Button, decorative button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth on surface and free of burr, damage, defect and accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall mesh in good condition and run smoothly.
Note: accessible sharp tip or edge are the sharp edge and tip on finished product that may cause harm to human skin under normal wearing.
3.4 Warp and weft yarn
The yarn skewness of the top collar, back and sleeve shall not be greater than 3%. The front bottom hem is free from any upwarp.
3.5 Strip and plaid matching
3.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0cm or above on shell fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 1.
Table 1 Requirements for strip and plaid matching In cm
Part name Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right front Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched with each other horizontally, and symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 —
Pocket and front Strips and plaids are matched with each other respectively with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.2. The patch pockets with inclined strips and plaids shall be symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 If the sizes of plaids are different, the center on the forepart of pocket shall prevail
Sleeve and front For the front and the part above sleeve elbow line, the plaids are matched with each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —
Sleeve seam For the part below sleeve elbow line, the plaids are matched with each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 —
Back seam Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.2 —
Collar and lapel Strips and plaids are symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 In case of shadow strips and plaids, apparent strips and plaids shall prevail
Side seam Plaids are matched with each other horizontally and the mutual deviation 10.0 below the armhole is not greater than 0.4 —
Sleeves Strip and plaid are straight and symmetrical; both sleeves shall be symmetrical in relation to the sleeve top, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —
Back yoke Strips are straight, with the mutual deviation between both ends not greater than 0.4 —
Notes:
1 The strips and plaids with color cycling shall be matched with each other based on the cycle.
2 Special design is free from such limitation.
3.5.2 Shell fabrics have obvious stripes or plaids of 0.5cm~1.0cm; for pocket and the front, stripes and plaids are matched with each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2cm.
3.5.3 The grain direction of nip-up and down pile and checkerboard weave fabric is consistent all over the body.
3.5.4 Fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main pattern and the grain direction all over the body shall be consistent.
3.6 Color difference
3.6.1 The color difference of top collar, lapel and front shawl from the front is greater than Grade 4, and that of other surface part is not lower than Grade 4.
3.6.2 The color difference of lining shall not be lower than Grade 3-4.
3.7 Appearance defects
The defect permissibility for each part of finished product shall comply with those specified in Table 2. See Figure 1 for each part of finished product. Only one defect within permissibility is allowable at each part. The defects not covered in this standard shall be in accordance with the requirements for similar ones in this table based on their forms.
Table 2 Requirements for degree of defects In cm
Defect name Degree Permissibility at each part
Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
Linear defect Slight Not allowed 2.0 and below 3.0 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed 2.0 and below
Strip defect Slight Not allowed Allowed at one place Allowed at two places
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed Allowed at one place
Blocky defect Slight Not allowed 0.5 and below 1.0 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed 0.5 and below
Weft bar Slight Not allowed Allowed at one place Allowed at two places
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed Allowed at one place
Wrinkle Slight Not allowed 5.0 and below 10.0 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed 5.0 and below
Oil, rust or color spot Slight Not allowed 0.2 and below 0.3 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Damaging defect Not allowed
Notes:
1 Description of defect degree:
slight: defects which are invisible intuitively but recognizable by careful identification.
apparent: defects which have no effect on the overall effect, but can be felt.
2 The permissible value for linear, strip and blocky defects in this table refers to total dimension of similar defects on the same product.
3 Special design or decoration is free from such limitation.
Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.
This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces FZ/T 81010-2009 Trench coats. In addition to a number of editorial changes, the following technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 81010-2009:
——Scope of the standard is modified (see Clause 1; Clause 1 of 2009 edition);
——Normative references are modified and supplemented (see Clause 2; Clause 2 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements of instructions are modified (see 3.1; 3.1 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for accessories are modified (see 3.3.3; 3.3.3 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for wrap and weft yarns are modified (see 3.4; 3.4 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for strip and plaid matching are modified (see 3.5; 3.5 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for splicing are deleted (see 3.6 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for appearance defects are modified (see 3.7; 3.8 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for sewing are modified (see 3.8; 3.9 of 2009 edition);
——The permissible deviation of specification and dimension is modified (see 3.9; 3.10 of 2009 edition);
——The requirement that garments for children aged from more than 3 years old to 14 years old shall also comply with those specified in GB 31701 is added (see 3.11);
——The index values of dimensional change rate by water washing, dimensional change rate by dry cleaning, color fastness to light, seam slippage, peeling strength of the part covered with adhesive interlining and tear force are modified (see 3.11, 3.12 of 2009 edition);
——The assessment indexes for wrinkling by dry cleaning is deleted (see 3.12 of 2009 edition);
——The assessment indexes for color fastness to transfer in joints, phenolic yellowing, dye mobility and appearance of finished coat after washing are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment indexes for color fastness of lining are added (see 3.11);
——The assessment indexes for functionality such as air permeability, hydrostatic pressure resistance and water and vapor transfer ratio are added (see 3.12);
——The inspection methods are modified and supplemented (see Clause 4; Clause 4 of 2009 edition);
——The requirements for inspection classification are modified (see 5.1; 5.1 of 2009 edition);
——The judgment criteria for appearance quality defects are modified and supplemented (see 5.2.3; 5.2.3 of 2009 edition);
——The judgment rules are modified (see 5.4; 5.4 of 2009 edition);
——Annex A "Test method for seam slippage" is deleted (see Annex A of 2009 edition).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous editions of this standard are as follows:
——FZ/T 81010-1999, FZ/T 81010-2001 and FZ/T 81010-2009.
Trench coats
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection method, inspection rules, marking, packaging, transportation and storage of trench coats.
This standard is applicable to the trench coats mainly made of woven fabrics.
This standard is not applicable to the garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in color
GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear properties of fabrics - Part 2: Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 4744 Textiles - Testing and evaluation for water resistance - Hydrostatic pressure method
GB/T 4745 Textiles - Testing and evaluation for water resistance - Spray test method
GB/T 4841.3 Color cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel
GB/T 5453 Textiles - Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent
GB/T 6152-1997 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to hot pressing
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
GB/T 8629-2001 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
GB/T 12704.1-2009 Textiles - Test method for water-vapour transmission of fabrics - Part 1: Desiccant method
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of fiber content
GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to transfer in joints
GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products
GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products
GB/T 31907-2015 Method of garment measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.1 Test method of peeled off strength value for garments used adhesive interlining
FZ/T 80007.3-2006 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
Sample photo of appearance sewing wrinkle of men's coats
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions
Instructions shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.
3.2 Size specification
3.2.1 Size specification shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.2.2 The specification of main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric in conformity to the quality requirement of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant standards for textile fabrics.
3.3.2 Lining
Lining suitable for the applied shell fabric and complying with the quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted.
3.3.3 Accessories
3.3.3.1 Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag
Lining cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag suitable for the performance of the adopted shell fabric and lining shall be used and their quality shall meet the requirements of relevant standard.
3.3.3.2 Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon
Sewing thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and belt) suitable to the performance of the used shell fabric, lining and accessories shall be adopted.
3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other accessories
Buttons (except decorative buttons), zippers and other accessories suitable for the adopted shell fabric shall be used. Button, decorative button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth on surface and free of burr, damage, defect and accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall mesh in good condition and run smoothly.
Note: accessible sharp tip or edge are the sharp edge and tip on finished product that may cause harm to human skin under normal wearing.
3.4 Warp and weft yarn
The yarn skewness of the top collar, back and sleeve shall not be greater than 3%. The front bottom hem is free from any upwarp.
3.5 Strip and plaid matching
3.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0cm or above on shell fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 1.
Table 1 Requirements for strip and plaid matching In cm
Part name Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right front Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched with each other horizontally, and symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 —
Pocket and front Strips and plaids are matched with each other respectively with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.2. The patch pockets with inclined strips and plaids shall be symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 If the sizes of plaids are different, the center on the forepart of pocket shall prevail
Sleeve and front For the front and the part above sleeve elbow line, the plaids are matched with each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —
Sleeve seam For the part below sleeve elbow line, the plaids are matched with each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 —
Back seam Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.2 —
Collar and lapel Strips and plaids are symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 In case of shadow strips and plaids, apparent strips and plaids shall prevail
Side seam Plaids are matched with each other horizontally and the mutual deviation 10.0 below the armhole is not greater than 0.4 —
Sleeves Strip and plaid are straight and symmetrical; both sleeves shall be symmetrical in relation to the sleeve top, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —
Back yoke Strips are straight, with the mutual deviation between both ends not greater than 0.4 —
Notes:
1 The strips and plaids with color cycling shall be matched with each other based on the cycle.
2 Special design is free from such limitation.
3.5.2 Shell fabrics have obvious stripes or plaids of 0.5cm~1.0cm; for pocket and the front, stripes and plaids are matched with each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2cm.
3.5.3 The grain direction of nip-up and down pile and checkerboard weave fabric is consistent all over the body.
3.5.4 Fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main pattern and the grain direction all over the body shall be consistent.
3.6 Color difference
3.6.1 The color difference of top collar, lapel and front shawl from the front is greater than Grade 4, and that of other surface part is not lower than Grade 4.
3.6.2 The color difference of lining shall not be lower than Grade 3-4.
3.7 Appearance defects
The defect permissibility for each part of finished product shall comply with those specified in Table 2. See Figure 1 for each part of finished product. Only one defect within permissibility is allowable at each part. The defects not covered in this standard shall be in accordance with the requirements for similar ones in this table based on their forms.
Table 2 Requirements for degree of defects In cm
Defect name Degree Permissibility at each part
Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
Linear defect Slight Not allowed 2.0 and below 3.0 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed 2.0 and below
Strip defect Slight Not allowed Allowed at one place Allowed at two places
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed Allowed at one place
Blocky defect Slight Not allowed 0.5 and below 1.0 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed 0.5 and below
Weft bar Slight Not allowed Allowed at one place Allowed at two places
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed Allowed at one place
Wrinkle Slight Not allowed 5.0 and below 10.0 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed 5.0 and below
Oil, rust or color spot Slight Not allowed 0.2 and below 0.3 and below
Apparent Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed
Damaging defect Not allowed
Notes:
1 Description of defect degree:
slight: defects which are invisible intuitively but recognizable by careful identification.
apparent: defects which have no effect on the overall effect, but can be felt.
2 The permissible value for linear, strip and blocky defects in this table refers to total dimension of similar defects on the same product.
3 Special design or decoration is free from such limitation.
