Detail of QB/T 5245-2018

Introduction of QB/T 5245-2018

Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009. This standard was proposed by China National Light Industry Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of SAC/TC 252 National Technical Committee on Leather Industry of Standardization Administration of China. This standard is issued for the first time. Leather garment with down feather fillers 1 Scope This standard specifies the requirements, test methods, inspection rules, and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of leather garment with down feather fillers. This standard is applicable to the leather garment with a variety of leather as the main fabric and with down feather (duck down, goose down, etc.) fillers. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. GB/T 1335.1 Standard sizing systems for garments - Men GB/T 1335.2 Standard sizing systems for garments - Women GB/T 1335.3 Standard sizing systems for garments - Children GB/T 2912.1 Textiles - Determination of formaldehyde - Part 1: Free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde (water extraction method) GB/T 3920 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Color fastness to rubbing GB/T 7573 Textiles - Determination of pH of aqueous extract GB/T 10288 Test method for down and feather GB/T 17592 Textiles - Test method of the use of banned azo colourants GB/T 17685 Down and feather GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products GB/T 19941 Leather and fur - Chemical tests - Determination of formaldehyde content GB/T 19942 Leather and fur - Chemical tests - Determination of banned azo colorants GB 20400 Leather and fur - Limit of harmful matter GB/T 22889 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of surface coating thickness QB/T 1277 Fur - Chemical tests - Determination of pH QB/T 1872 Garment leather QB/T 2537 Leather - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to to-and-fro rubbing QB/T 2711 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of tear load - Double edge tear QB/T 2724 Leather - Chemical tests - Determination of pH QB/T 2725 Leather - Determination of odour QB/T 2790 Dyeing fur - Testing method for colour fastness to rubbing QB/T 2924 Fur - Test methods for colour fastness to perspiration QB/T 2925 Fur - Test methods for colour fastness to light QB/T 2970 Fur collar 3 Requirements 3.1 Sizing and specification 3.1.1 Sizing The sizing shall be selected according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3, and the sizing designation shall meet the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3. 3.1.2 Specification The specification shall be self-designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3, of which the permissible deviation shall meet the requirements of Annex A. 3.2 Leather 3.2.1 Fur materials They shall be selected according to GB 20400, QB/T 1872, etc., and the relevant special requirements shall meet the requirements of Table B.1 in Annex B. 3.2.2 Materials for parts They shall meet the requirements of Table 1, and their suitability shall be considered for the special-style products.   Table 1 Materials for parts Part Quality requirements Superior product Acceptable product Top collar It shall be smooth and fine without damage on surface Front It shall be suitable in color, smooth on surface and consistent in pattern; the main parts shall be free of damage, and the secondary parts are allowed to have inconspicuous minor damage in 2 places; the material used on both sides of the side seam shall not use the skirting part; and the fuzz of suede leather shall be fine It shall be suitable in color, smooth on surface and basically consistent in pattern; the skirting material on both sides of the side seam shall not be greater than 30mm; inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 3 places; and the fuzz of suede leather may be slightly coarse Back It shall be suitable in color and shall be commensurate with the color at the seam with the front; inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 2 places; and the fuzz of suede leather shall be fine It shall be suitable in color and shall be basically commensurate with the color at the seam with the front; inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 3 places; and the fuzz of suede leather may be slightly coarse Sleeve surface It shall be smooth and fine on surface; its color shall be commensurate with the color of the front; minor damage is not allowed; and the suede leather shall be free of coarse fuzz It shall be smooth and fine on surface; its color shall be basically commensurate with the color of the front; and minor damage and coarse fuzz are allowed in the unapparent places Sleeve underarm It shall be commensurate with the sleeve surface; the skirting material used for both sides of the sleeve line shall not be greater than 20mm; and inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 2 places It shall be basically commensurate with the sleeve surface; the skirting material used for both sides of the sleeve line shall not be greater than 30mm; minor damages such as scattered small scabs and rough spots are allowed in the unapparent places Lining The leather used shall be basically uniform in thickness and shall be free of obvious appearance defects Grain leather and suede leather with common defects but without serious uneven thickness, knife wounds and holes may be used; the inner incised wound, if any, shall not exceed half of the thickness, but it shall be glued Waistband, back belt and accessory They shall be basically commensurate with the body, and minor damage is allowed on the surface Basic requirements The glossy leather shall be flat and smooth on surface, free of base exposure, crazing or broken face, and the fuzz of suede leather shall be fine, even and non-greasy; the leather shall be soft without dyeing defect, with the basically consistent thickness, color and grain fineness; and skirting and side abdominal skin shall not be used, except for both sides of the seams in the specified positions 3.3 Fillers 3.3.1 Down and feather fillers They shall meet the requirements of GB/T 17685. 3.3.2 Other fibre fillers They shall conform to the appropriate product standards. 3.4 Accessory fabric and accessory They shall meet those specified in Table 2. The physical and chemical property indexes of textiles and furs shall meet those specified in Tables B.3 and B.4 of Annex B. The fur collar shall meet the requirements of QB/T 2970. Table 2 Accessory fabric and accessory Variety Quality requirements Superior product Acceptable product Textile The performance and color shall be compatible with the leather fabric and shrinkage ratio suitable to the fabric, and there shall be no skipped yarn, color difference or dyeing defect The performance and color shall be compatible with the leather fabric and shrinkage ratio suitable to the fabric; there shall be no defects such as obvious skipped yarn, relatively obvious color difference and dyeing defect; and the number of skipped yarns shall be not be greater than two, with each no longer than 5mm Fur The fur shall be suitable in color, and the fleece shall be basically uniform in length and fineness, without rigid, crisp skin, depilation, peculiar smell or decolorization; and the seam shall be flat and smooth Accessory The color of accessories shall be commensurate with the leather color. The accessories shall be burr-free and firmly mounted. The metal accessories shall be free of corrosion Zipper The color of zipper cloth shall be commensurate with the leather color; the zippers shall be smooth in zipping, without misalignment or loss of teeth; the zippers shall be sutured straightly and evenly at consistent edge distance Button The buttons shall be smooth and durable; and their color and luster shall be suitable to the fabric Sewing thread The thread performance and color shall be suitable to the fabric and lining Trademark It shall be neat and firm in right place, with correct and clear content 3.5 Sewing requirements They shall meet those specified in Table 3.   Table 3 Sewing requirements Item Quality requirements Superior product Acceptable product Stitch length It shall be adapted to the material properties, thickness, sewing thread, production process, with 6~15 stitches per 30mm on the surface of fabric (except for ornamental threads) Stitch The stitches shall be natural and straight at uniform length; the upper and lower threads shall be matched with each other, in appropriate tightness, and free of skewness and wrinkles; there shall be back stitching or knot at the start-stop stitches; empty stitch, drop stitch and skipping stitch are not allowed at the main parts, and are allowed in 2 places at the secondary parts, with the number of each not exceeding 2 The stitches shall be natural and straight at uniform length; the upper and lower threads shall be matched with each other, in appropriate tightness, and free of serious skewness and wrinkles; there shall be back stitching or knot at the start-stop stitches; the number of empty stitches, drop stitches and skipping stitches shall not exceed 2 respectively, and shall not exceed 2 at the main parts, shall not exceed 5 in total Sewing surface The fabric shall be free of scars caused by needle plate and feed dog on the surface The fabric shall be free of obvious scars caused by needle plate and feed dog on the surface Buttonhole The hole position shall face and be appropriate to the button; button nailing, thread off and knotting shall be firm 3.6 Appearance quality It shall meet those specified in Table 4. Table 4 Appearance quality Part Quality requirements Collar The top collar shall be flat and smooth; the neck line shall be round and smooth; the left and right collar points shall be symmetrical and free from upturning; the gorge line and roll line shall be straight, and the collar inclination be proper Shoulder The shoulder part shall be flat and smooth; the shoulder seam shall be straight; the shoulder dart shall be in the same length and bilaterally symmetrical Sleeve The setting in sleeve shall be round and smooth with uniform easing, and two sleeves shall be consistent with each other in term of length with difference not greater than 5mm; the size (width) difference of the two cuffs shall not be greater than 3mm Top fly and under fly The front edge shall be smooth, straight and pretty flat, at suitable tightness. The top fly shall not be shorter than the under fly and their length difference shall not be greater than 3mm Vent and side vent They shall be flat and free from hanging and slanting, and the length difference shall not be greater than 3mm Hem It shall be flat without degumming and wrinkle, and shall be uniform in width Pocket The left and right pockets shall be symmetrical in front and back as well as in height, with the pocket flap matching with the pocket width, at the difference not greater than 3mm Buttonhole The buttonholes shall be consistent in length and width, equal in corresponding edge distance and without skewness, and the difference, if any, shall not be greater than 2mm Loop It shall be consistent in height and length on both sides, shall be firm and free from skewness, and the difference, if any, shall not be greater than 3mm Waistband The fabric, lining and interlining shall be flat, smooth and properly tightened Front rise and back rise They shall be round, flat and smooth Belt-loop It shall be consistent and commensurate in length and width, with height difference not greater than 3mm Trouser legs The length and width of trouser legs are consistent with difference not greater than 5mm; the difference of leg openings in size (width) shall not be greater than 3mm Interlining It shall be matched with the fabric and suitable in tightness when sitting General requirements The filler shall be basically even in thickness, flat in the whole garment, at suitable tightness and free from pleating, kilting and pressing; the adhesive-bonded interlining shall be free from degumming or bubbling; the integral appearance shall be free from stain, burn, scratch, dropping fastener and zipper puller falling off or peculiar smell, etc. 4 Test methods 4.1 Devices and tools 4.1.1 Measuring tools Steel rulers with minimum division of 0.5mm (for measuring stitch length) and 1mm; and steel tape with minimum division of 1mm. 4.1.2 Inspection bench The bench length, width and height shall be proper, the bench surface shall be flat and smooth, so that sample can be flatten on it. 4.1.3 Illuminance The illuminance shall not be less than 750lx. 4.2 Sizing and specification 4.2.1 Sizing designation It shall be inspected according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.

Contents of QB/T 5245-2018

Foreword II 1 Scope 2 Normative references 3 Requirements 4 Test methods 5 Inspection rules 6 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage Annex A (Normative) Permissible deviations of specifications Annex B (Normative) Special type inspection Annex C (Normative) Calculation of mass deviation of down and feather fillers Annex D (Informative) Comprehensive judgment for after-sales quality of leather garment with down feather fillers